Minimalist Wardrobe: Discernment.

The 3D elements... and then some.

I had trouble deciding on the next instalment for this series, because a few things sprang to mind beginning with D.

The obvious was Declutter, because it's a fundamental part of minimalism; but I tend to be less interested in what to do, and more interested in how to do it.

So, you could say, I'm here for the the Details.

My inclination for detail-obsession is certainly not without its disadvantages, but it can be a trait worth harnessing.

In Approach, I indulge the details that set the path to appreciating all that simplicity has to offer. The essence of a just-so neckline.

The expertise of a Bardot fringe, and bandeaux skirt.

The eclectic nod to French cinema, tied up in all-black ensembles of delicately thought out, well-made basics. To have missed that would have been to miss not just how they worked, but why.

And that's when I settled on Discernment.

"Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman." ~ Coco Chanel.

A discerning view.

It was a discerning eye that unveiled the luxurious potential, hidden within the shallow depths of my mother's minimally curated wardrobe; and a discerning eye that selected each individual piece, one by one, building upon the knowledge of each previous purchase like a silk strand of DNA.

What made it home in stiff cardboard bags with thick ribbon handles was an evolution of tailoring, fine fabrics and style; a tapestry of education nestled within lashings of scented tissue.

A nip here. A tuck there.

More fluidity, drape and expertise. Less clamour, trend and noise.

A discerning eye rewarded the finest knits and silks with a coveted spot on the sparse shelves and rails - the perfect backdrop to boast designer coats and shoe-string camisoles.

Garments inside their dry-cleaning sheaths shivered in barely there drafts, like the reeds of expense.

And as a child, there I could be found. A student of good judgement, sitting with my knees up to my chin amidst the mix of protective bags and silk dresses that fanned about my head and shoulders; trying to download the elegance and knowledge that made my mother's wardrobe such a subject of intrigue.

My mother's good taste didn't just bring home the soft, rustling packages of quality and design. Through her meticulous display upon the shelves and rails, it revealed the ways she didn't want for more than she had, because what she already had spoke volumes.

But that's just the beginning. From there it's about uncovering the continuous path to improvement.

"Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance." ~ Coco Chanel.

A disciplined mind.

Though prone to being mistaken for elitism, or snobbery, discernment is actually more an act of discipline than it is an act of indulgence, because for every uncompromising purchase exists the refusal of many, often more accessible, alternatives.

I used to work with a woman who must've worn a different dress to work almost every day of the year; but as I take the stand in defence of those who purchase more expensive items than the mainstream deem 'appropriate', owning that amount of clothing is far more indulgent than owning a third of it for potentially double the cost.

Sure, there might be a discipline at the checkout, in terms of the upfront expense, but there's something to be said for cost per wear.

I think price tags have taken all the credit in terms of assessing someone's self-restraint, because that is a mere blip in time compared to the long-enduring discipline of, for example, going without until you can afford something built to last. And whilst we are on the topic of distilling someone's character down to a mere few digits, those who tout that luxury items and handcrafted garments aren't 'worth' the asking price - neither are the t-shirts that only cost a few dollars to make.

"Elegance is refusal" ~ Coco Chanel.

Deprecation, or deprivation?

I remember shopping with my mum as a child and watching as she pensively held onto a sleeve or a hem in deep consideration before handing it back to the sales assistant, with a smiling decline. Whenever I asked her why she didn't buy something, she would usually say one of two things:

"It's not quite right", or,

"I don't need it."

And bear in mind, that's another D. Discretion.

She gave me her reasons, but she never revealed them to the store clerk. Self discipline, and discretion, means not having to justify yourself all the time.

But being discerning is not just about being able to disapprove, or deprive oneself.

It's also about being able to see when something is tasteful and well designed, without necessarily looking for it. The same is true of being able to see when something isn't.

It's about having good judgement.

My mum tends to have more of an eye for fit, and I have more of an eye for fabric. That meaning, my mum will usually know, at a glance, if something is going to fit the body in a flattering way. Despite also being fussy about fabric, she has a tendency to be more forgiving of a garment's composition if she knows the cut is going to work, regardless.

She favours things like elastic gussets, and paneling, for a close silhouette that will spring back to shape.

Leggings that look more like jodhpurs, for example, with cleverly placed seams for movement without compromising fit. She will assess the cut of a garment to decide how the fabric is likely to behave.

If it behaves the way she wants it to, what it's actually made of is not much of a factor.

I am also very fussy about fit, but I will use fabric composition as a guide, first, to assess whether or not the garment has been made of something that will behave the way I expect it to. I like fabrics that drape and skim through the body, rather than contour around it. I like anything sculpted to also be easy, and that relies on fabrics which move when I do.

Despite our individual start points, we always agree when something is done well - however it's managed to do it.

In terms of building a carefully curated wardrobe, that is minimal but functional, I will use as much of a discerning eye as I possibly can, to pare surplus back to the best option. That means selecting the best fabric for the job. The best fit for form and function. The best colour palettes for ease and aesthetic.

To see the items that outshine their counterparts, and vote accordingly.

"Fashion changes, but style endures." ~ Coco Chanel.

Outfits

Earlier, I touched upon discernment being a bit of a lesson that continues to evolve and unfold. In my personal experience, the more I take the time to understand fabrics and how garments are actually made, the less is my tolerance for sub-par design, material and longevity.

It's a steep learning curve with high return. And it feels somewhat autonomous.

I simply walk right past the stores I'd have stepped inside many years ago, because there isn't even a shred of interest left. It's not about price, and it's not about status.

It's about an intense appreciation for what can be achieved when care, attention, education and skill are applied.

Recently I purchased an organic cotton kimono that's hip length, with 3/4 sleeves and an optional belt, to replace a summer jacket I'd had for many years that wasn't made of very good fabric for the conditions in which it was intended to be worn.

That meaning, it was a textured, somewhat gritty polyester which was basically a sweat-trap for summer.

It fluttered, it draped, and it was the easiest thing in the world to shrug on, and off.

But the fabric I could no longer abide.

If you'd like to see this versatile but discreet item, selected with great discernment over shape, fit, and fabric, then you can view my styling video here

I knew it would work over swimwear at the beach, but it was important to me that something for the hot weather could also be worn in all other environments throughout the summer.

As it is something I would consider slightly 'unexpected' for an outfit, I had to be discerning about how to style it, as I didn't want it to make too much of a statement.

I decided layering would be fun, and took some inspiration from the styling of my favourite FEIT shoes.

Bottom line: Employing discernment when selecting clothing can help keep you mindful. It slows you down and leaves room for better judgement to guide your decisions.

In turn, a mindful approach can help keep a wardrobe minimal, as the act of slowing down can keep surplus from flooding in. It's a bit like eating slowly, enabling the message of fullness from your stomach to reach your brain in time. Mindfulness can send the same message to your brain, that your wardrobe is full, and you're acting on impulse.

Sometimes, if you perceive gaps in your wardrobe, it's not so much about filling them as it is about eliminating what created them.